Pictures from Alan and Susan

Leh Festival-Polo Match.

Face Mask Dancing by Monks at Thiksey Monastery as part of the Leh Festival.

Local Trucks, note how decorated they are. This is on the way to Nubra Valley.

On route to Nubra Valley. Our Scorpio Jeep.

Hemis Monastery outside Leh on way to Tsomoiri. Boy Monks serving tea in their kitchen. Tasted salty so went outside and threw it away.

Mother and Baby. She was happy to get an apple as they are very rare for them as they are isolated.

Shepherd with brand new lamb, mom was not leaving his side. This was a flock that blocked the road. His hat is called a Kullu Hat.

Yak rides at Manali.

Shimla-view from our hotel balcony. It is a hill top city.

Thimpu Bhutan

September 28, 2007

This picture is Susan in her "candy store" and Chilies drying on a roof top. And Canada struck again.

We had a fun night in Kathmandu, This last year my friend Gracie introduced me to the life of Casinos. The Hotel Radisson is just beside our hotel, and they have a 24 hour casino. I Managed to drag Alan in to the casino where I proceeded to win time after time (k-ching k-ching k-ching) as My fortune piled up to a grand total after expenses of 300 INR (will let you figure that one out). But the real bonus was the complementary buffet available to all patrons. So Alan is now a more willing participant. Another fun time.

We flew yesterday from Kathmandu to Paro Bhutan. On route we took dozens of pictures of the Himalayas. The captain named the peaks as we flew by them. Even though we took many pics of Mt. Everest, other peaks were just as spectacular.

Bhutan is a huge constrast to both Nepal and India. Very little traffic, very clean and the people are quiet and considerate. ( no hassels) Many dress in their traditional clothing. In fact all business people wear traditional clothing much as we would wear a suit and a tie to work. The women are all dressed in their ethnic clothes.

Upon our arrival we were offered beetlenut to chew ( an addictive but traditional habit) makes ones mouth and teeth red and gives a feeling of euphoria. To us it would have given a headache and our guide suggested not to indulge.

Our trip from Paro to Thimpu the capital took @ 2 hours. No airport here because it is nestled in a valley too narrow to permit navigation.

Our guide is teaching us Bhutanese, and Alan is teaching him French. The blind leading the blind. He gave a great tour of Thimpu all the way from Traditional Herbal Medicine as I had an interest, craft school that included, wood carving, painting, metal work, embroidery and textiles, we also visited a 150 year old village museum.

We are having a little down time for a few hours as our guide has gone to make arrangements for our dinner at an authetic Bhutanese Restaurant. Food here is a little spicier, they love their chili, in fact the roofs of houses are covered with drying chilis. See picture.

Email in Bhutan May not be that plentiful so the next chapter of us will be resumed whenever.....Bye for now.

Kathmandu Nepal

September 25, 2007

we are quite impressed with the technology here in Nepal, Cellphones with many people and the contrast of these colourful holy men.

Today is a drizzle so we haven't seen Everest yet...

Last night was the big cricket game between India and Pakistan, something like the last game of the Stanley Cup. Alan was relaxing in the room as India was dismissed after 158 runs. Outside our room across the garden there was a huge roar. Alan thought they were watching the cricket match but when he went to join them to get the rules of cricket explained, he discovered they were a group of Early Response Team Instructors ( police, army, firemen) from Bangladesh, Nepal, Philippines and India celebrating the completion of their course. They were not watching cricket but in the middle of Kareoke. He was given a beer and welcomed to join them. After few beers and an hour or so, Susan went to find that Alan was very much indulged. YELLOW SUBMARINE was a big hit. we were invited to join them for dinner. Wonderful people and very fun loving. Great party!

We have invitations to visit Bangladesh but it is not on our itinerary.

Took a taxi down town this morning and walked outside the regular tourist areas to see how people live. we were pleased that we had no hassel. Less intense here than India and a little cleaner.

Now that cricket is over, politics will resume.

Bye for now.

Update

September 23, 2007
As you can see we have posted our new itinerary. Our travel agent in India has been WONDERFUL.

From our last posting we forgot to mention a few things.
When we arrived at Amritsar, we went to the border of India and Pakistan, @ 25km. Every night at 6pm they have a ceremony to close the border, very festive. More interesting was the people especially the Indian women with their beautiful vibrant clothing. They were dancing and doing the Bollywood thing. The crowd on the India side was huge ( apparently every night) There was a handful on the Pakistan side. The crowd would cheer and sing for the entire ceremony. Very inspiring.
On our arrival at Amritsar there was a huge down-pour and the road was flooding almost impassable, but not for the tuk tuks, bicycles, and anything else that can move. Incredible this place is. Nothing stops them.

Our next overnight stay was Chandigarh, a city planned by a French architect in 1952. Austere but highly functional. The streets are wide, divided roads with lush vegetation in between. The city centre is very modern and upbeat. We enjoyed an autorickshaw ride to and from our hotel to enjoy the city. Also in Chandigarh are the Rock Gardens. A masterpiece of imagination and creativity, providing a surrealistic place to meditate. We took lots of pictures as around each corner there was more and more interesting sculptures blending in with rocks, water, and trees. A world class site.

We arrived back in Delhi yesterday. Our travel agent treated us to a wonderful dinner after discussing with us our past and future intineraries. We are so lucky to have him working for us.

Just arrived in Kathmandu. Surprised that it's nestled in a very verdant valley surrounded by the Himalyas of course crowned by Mt. Everest. Alan intends to trek to the top tomorrow. Unless he chooses to go shopping or watch the India and Pakistan cricket final. That is big news here.....surpasses all politics.
The newspaper had an article that an airflight was delayed to permit the passengers to finish watching the game on TV at the airport. Priorities!!!!

Bye for now. Thank you for the comments. Love hearing from everyone.

Itinerary Change Bhutan instead of Tibet

Sep : Delhi to Kathmandu - fly

24 Sep : At Kathmandu
Sightseeing tour.

25 Sep : At Kathmandu
Day free

26 Sep : At Kathmandu
Day free.

27 sept : Thu : Kathamndu / Paro by Druk Air & transfer to Thimphu (Flight # KB 205, Dep - ktm 0825 Arr - Paro 0950)
The flight into Bhutan takes you over the great Himalayas, offering the scintillating scenery of the world's highest glacial peaks. As you enter Paro valley, you will see the silvery Pa Chu (Paro river) meandering down the valley, the Paro Dzong (fortress) and Ta Dzong (watch tower). On arrival, received by our representative and transfer to Thimphu (65 km, approx 3 hours ) , the modern capital town of Bhutan.

Thimphu, perhaps the most unusual capital city in the world, is the seat of government. This bustling town is home to Bhutan’s Royal family, the civil servants, and foreign missions with representation in Bhutan. It is also the headquarters for a number of internationally funded development projects.

Evening take a stroll around Thimphu main street, visiting shops and local market. It is a fascinating and provides opportunity to mingle with local people.

Overnight at the hotel in Thimphu.

28 sept : Fri : Thimphu

After breakfast, sightseeing in Thimphu valley including visit to the following : National Memorial Chorten. The building of this landmark was originally

envisaged by Bhutan’s third king, His Majesty Jigme Dorji Wangchuk (“the father of modern Bhutan”) who has wished to erect monument to world peace and prosperity. Completed in 1974 after his untimely death, it serves both as a memorial to the Late King and as a monument to peace. Later visit Textile and Folk Heritage Museum, a fascinating testimony of the Bhutanese material culture and living traditions.

Afternoon visit to Trashichhodzong, the beautiful medieval fortress/monastery which houses most of the Government's office and King's Throne room It is also the summer residence of Je Khenpo, the Chief Abbot. Then, visit the government-run Handicrafts Emporium and local crafts shops, to browse through example of Bhutan's fine traditional arts. Here you can buy hand-woven textiles, thangkha paintings, masks, ceramics, slate and wood carvings, jewelry, interesting items made from local materials.

Overnight at the hotel in Thimphu.

29 : Sat : Thimphu / Punakha (75 km, approx 3 hours drive)

After breakfast, visit the National Library, housing an extensive collection of priceless Buddhist manuscripts; the Institute for Zorig Chusum (commonly known as the Painting School) where students undergo a 6-year training course in Bhutan’s 13 traditional arts and crafts.

After breakfast drive to Punakha via Duchula pass. An hours drive from Thimphu will take you to this pass (3050 meters), from here one can have superb view of the Mountain ranges on a clear day. Drive on to Punakha (1,300m/4,265ft)

Punakha served as the capital of Bhutan until 1955 and still it is the winter seat of the Je Khenpo (Chief Abbot). Blessed with a temperate climate and fed by the Pho Chu (male) and Mo Chu (female) rivers, Punakha is the most fertile valley in the country.

Overnight at the hotel in Punakha.

30 Sept : Sun : Punakha & Wangduephodrang

After breakfast visit to Punakha Dzong: Placed strategically at the junction of the Pho Chu and Mo Chu rivers, the dzong was built in 1637 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal to serve as the religious and administrative center of the region. Damaged over the centuries by four catastrophic fires and an earthquake, the dzong has been fully restored in recent years by the present monarch.

We shall also visit Wangduephodrang (1,300m/4,265ft). Located south of Punakha and the last town before central Bhutan, Wangduephodrang is like an extended village with a few well-provisioned shops. The higher reaches of the Wangduephodrang valley provide rich pastureland for cattle. This district is famous for its fine bamboo work, stone carvings, and slate which is mined up a valley a few km. from the town. Wangduephodrang Dzong: Stretched along the hilltop above the confluence of the Punakha Chu and Tang Chu rivers, the imposing Wangduephodrang Dzong is the town’s most visible feature.

Overnight at the hotel in Punakha.


01 Oct : Mon : Punakha / Paro (150 km, approx 5 hours drive)

After breakfast, drive to Paro.

Paro lies at a height of 2,200m/7,218ft. This beautiful valley encapsulates a rich culture, scenic beauty and hundreds of myths and legends. It is home to many of Bhutan’s oldest temples and monasteries, the country’s only airport, and the National Museum. Mt. Chomolhari (7,300m) reigns in white glory at the northern end of the valley, its glacial waters plunging through deep gorges to form the Pa Chu (Paro river). The Paro valley is one of the kingdom’s most fertile, producing the bulk of Bhutan’s famous red rice from its terraced fields.

Afternoon visit Ta Dzong, originally built as Watchtower, which now houses National Museum . The extensive collection includes antique thangkha paintings, textiles, weapons & armour, household objects and a rich assortment of natural and historic artifacts.

Then walk down the trail to visit Rinpung Dzong, meaning (“fortress of the heap of jewels”), which has a long and fascinating history. Along the wooden galleries lining the inner courtyard are fine wall paintings illustrating Buddhist lore such as four friends, the old man of long life, the wheel of life, scenes from the life of Milarepa, Mount. Sumeru and other cosmic Mandala.

Overnight at the hotel in Paro.

02 Oct : Tue : Paro

After breakfast drive up the valley to view the ruins of Drukgyel Dzong, 18 km from Paro town on the northern side of the valley. It was from here that the Bhutanese repelled several invading Tibetan armies during the 17th century. Nearby visit traditional Bhutanese Farm House which offers good insight into lifestyle of local people.

Then take an excursion to Taktsang Monastery view point, the most famous of Bhutanese monasteries. It is said that Guru Rinpoche arrived here on the back of a tigress and meditated at this monastery hence it is called “Tiger’s Nest”. The excursion to monastery’s view point takes about 5 hours for round trip.

While return to Paro town visit en route Kyichu Lhakhang, one of the oldest and most sacred shrines of the Kingdom.

Overnight at the hotel in Paro.

03 Oct : Wed : Paro / Kathamndu by Druk Air (Flight # KB 204, Dep - Paro 1000 Arr - Delhi 1045)

After breakfast transfer to airport for flight to onward destination. On arrival transfer to the hotel.

04 Oct : Kathmandu to Pokhara and continue on the original itinerary.

Roy Rogers and Dale Evans do India

September 21, 2007

We are finally back to some form of civilization, thus we can email. Many great adventures in the mountains, but we are happy to be down in the plains, dispite the heat.

Punjab province is very economically well off. It is the centre of production of over half of India's wheat, rice and millet that is grown. As a consequence the social life and society are well off. The shopping malls are quite spectacular in Chandigarh, the capital of Punjab.

We were in Amritsar yesterday and visited the Golden Temple. It is truly spectacular. The people are extremely devoted to their faith. They are very friendly and want to take our picture. They also want to talk with us and use their English, we feel quite special.

In Dalhousie we had a 3 day 2 night rest at a resort hanging on the side of the mountain. 3 km from the town centre. Again people are friendly. The city has a great number of walks around the hill tops.

On our travels we passed hundreds of water buffalo heading down from the mountains to forge in the plains for the winter. They are huge and slow, and will stand in the middle of the road which are not that wide to begin with, so us, buffalo, buses, trucks, motorcycles and small children all compete for their space on the road.

Leaving Amritsar the only traffic tie up was due to an elephant and rider on the main highway.

Food is delicious, Alan is in heaven. Susan is being coming addicted to lassies ( a yoghurt based drink)

In the town of Chamba we were the only white people. In fact the next day a store clerk commented that he saw a young lad approaching us and he wanted to know what he wanted. Of course the lad just wanted a coin from our country. So we stick out big time.

Our plans have changed, we will be going to Bhutan instead of Tibet, on the advise of fellow travellers, they say don't miss Bhutan. Tibet has changed since China has taken over.

Bye for now.

Dharmasala

September 15, 2007
In the principality of Dharmasala the official residence of the Dali Lama in exile. Just returned from visiting his temple and absorbing our spiritual buzz. Extremely intricate statue deities so loaded with colour and of course sophisticated carvings.
Again we were treated to a thunder and lightening storm this afternoon, lasting about one hour and then clears. Fortunate for us as we went for a hike to the falls. As a result of the rain the falls were in full force.
We visited the Tibetan village as India has established a special area for displaced Tibetans. The museum was incredible. The crafts and fine painting institution were really interesting for Susan. Because the culture of Tibet is being destroyed by the Chinese occupation there is more Tibetan culture here than in Tibet.
We are going on an overnight trek up the mountain tomorrow. To Dharmakot. We are looking forward to the hike and overnight stay. What awaits us is a mystery...

We think we have higher speed internet and trying for a picture. Susan's favorite ----monkeys.

Greetings from the Clouds

Shimla to Dharmasala
September 14, 2007

We have traveled from Shimla to Rewalsar, A beautiful high mountain sacred lake and caves of Buddist, Hindu, and Sikh. We had a huge thunder and lightening storm. The huge rain cleared the air and we were treated to fantastic clear skies and awesome scenery. The shrines are all different. We climbed hundred of rock steps to visit sacred caves where the disciples of Buddism made there mark, (often footprints).
The sites change at every corner of the road. Road travel has become a little easier. Mostly paved roads. But still challenging due to narrow roads, large buses and trucks and crazy drivers. HONK HONK.
We arrived in Dharmasala @ 400pm. Our hotel is just opposite the official residence of The Dali Lama in exile. The skies here are a show on there own. Clear one moment and overcast and rain the next. Seemingly several different layers of clouds as we are up high in the foothillls of the Himalayas.
We have a guided tour tomorrow of the area and a trek the next day to our next lodge.
Going for dinner, no pictures due to slow internet.
Thanks for the comments on the blog. We love hearing from everyone.
Alan and Susan

Shimla

September 12, 2007

Well we are continuing to experience such wonderful adventures. We arrived in Shimla 2 days ago, it certainly is nice to put down ones feet for a few days. We continue to be delighted with out quality of hotel. Service is wonderful, they can't do enough for you.
We had a guide, Vichel for a day to tour Shimla and environs. Visited the summer holiday site of the British army before India's independence in 1947. A grand British building, we remarked that it looked like a castle.
Lots of history and lifestyle of India, our guide had an arranged marriage, very interesting listening to him and his way of life, also how tourism has affected his lifestyle.

A highlight was the visit to the Monkey Temple. Monkeys were everywhere, lots of photos, sorry too long to download as server is Slowwwwwww for photos. We had to take off all hats, glasses, make sure there was nothing in our pockets as they steal. Lots of mothers with babies quite sweet but dangerous. You carry a stick and they get the picture to stay away.

Shimla is a very interesting city, it is the capital of the province of Himachael Pradesh. There is a a street called the Mall which does not allow vehicles. Very civilized, the shops have the look of old England. Very quaint except for the horns. HONK HONK all day long.

We are so happy that we are sleeping well as we had some challenges at first with the Altitude Sickness.

We are taking a free day to enjoy the city of Shimla. Tomorrow we will go for 5 hours to our next stop, of Rewalsar.

Our travel agent in Delhi has called us 3 times to make sure we are happy. The planning so far has been more than we could imagine, so smooth.

We sit and enjoy breakfast looking out on the Mall. As people walk by in their various attire, children in uniforms and women in beautiful garments, it feels like we are sitting in the middle of a fashion show.

Bye for now. Alan and Susan

Manali

September 9, 2007
Alan is delighted as he can watch US open final tennis late tonight.
Had a another interesting day. Visiting Hindu temples, hot springs, riding Yaks and Alan taming a boa constrictor and cobra. Hope these pictures transfer this time. We will be leaving early tomorrow for our 8 hour drive to Shimla.

Manali

Sept. 8, 2007
We arrived here today @ noon. we survived the most incredible experiences:
1. nomad country- Yangscab, our driver took us on an out of the way route where we experienced nomadic way of life. People were very curious of us and we gave them our package lunch and they gave us pictures of their families, yaks and goats.
2. saw the rare black neck crane, (huge)
3. a bridge had collasped and our driver took us down the bank across the dry river bank and up the other side. Nothing is impossible in this area.
4. Rockslide at 0430 woke us up with boulders falling to the right of our tent. Normal happenings according to the camp manager, a bit scary for Susan.
5. The road denies description . Sometimes there is no road, just ruts in the side of the mountain. We are glad we did it, but never again.
6. The traffic is incredible, huge trucks passing side by side on a narrow ledge with 1,000 feet drop off inches away. Saw several wrecks at the bottom of the ravines. But we felt secure as we had a fantastic driver.

We have a wonderful hotel here overlooking the city below and such a nice treat after the trip from Leh. The camps were clean, but facilities very basic. People were so accomodating, hot water bottles at night. Food was different, cooked in a little tent, sometimes for 20 people that were staying at the camps. Andrew you would be very impressed.

We have met our new driver, Nurinder, that will take us to Delhi, we feel like King and Queen, he takes us where ever, when ever, we want and waits. We are getting used to this kind of life. Brand new car and we are the first clients to use it and he was so excited to tell us this. Only 500km as he brought it up from Mumbai but already has a crunched bumper and scrapes on the side. Driving is absurd here.

The shopping looks wonderful, lots of interesting and different choices. Trying hard not to buy as we will have to lug it with us.
Weather has been cool (very cold at night). through the mountains. Now it is very pleasant, overcast but bright.
Bye for now.

September 3, 2007

Leh

Just returned mid afternoon from Nubra Valley. Imagine this,altitude sickness, winding switchback roads with nothing but potholes --- but having the most amazing experience imaginable.

Our worst forest roads are like super highways compared to the road to the Nubra Valley 120km took us 5 hours. Passed through the highest motorable road in the world. 18,000 feet.
Decended into a different way of living. The Ladahkian people are beautiful and hard working.

We stayed in tents at the confluence of 2 rivers that flow to Pakistan. These create 2 beautiful valleys with hot springs, ancient monasteries and quaint villages. We experienced camel back riding, forging rivers and wonderful meals at the camp.

Returned back on the same torturous route as part of an army caravan, until our driver, Yangscab, patiently passed them one by one on precipitous narrow winding roads. Scary but we felt confident in his ability.

Upon our return Alan entered an archery demonstration and scored a bull's eye. Crowd cheered. This was at the Leh Festival that is going on this week.

Hope the pictures will transfer this time, as we are trying later at night and Hi speed????? is supposed to be quicker, nothing is ever what it advertised.